Growing Lilies

"Our recent hailstorm reminds me that we need to update our seasonal planting tips! Luckily I had some screening material handy when it started coming down, but what I should have had in place were poles or sticks to drape them over, as the weight of the hail can break off the lilies' tender tips. You don't want your cover to actually touch the plant. I save all cuttings of long, flexible branches that can arch over to hold up the plastic sheeting in my simple frame "greenhouse" if it droops, or protect the tips of long-growing stems up on shelves. Having supports in place in the garden before things get nasty is a wise precaution.

Clear spring nights can still bring frosts in some areas, and cloth sheets or "Reemay" row-covers are better protection for that than plastic. Lily grower Johan Mak keeps the overhead irrigation on all night in his fields when there's frost in the forecast, recalling the old farmer’s trick if the tomato plants get frozen stiff overnight – go out before sunrise and spray the plants with cold water from the hose, and they’ll thaw out without harm. If the sun hits them it’s all over, so don’t sleep in!

If frost or hail do some damage to leaves there will an entry-point for botrytis spores, active during wet, cold weather (hopefully now past, but you never know!). In her July 2004 PNWLS field tour, Judith showed her “students” the white spots on leaves that showed where hailstones had “dinged” the leaves in spring. In another section of the field, she pointed out the results when cold, rainy weather right afterward had prevented workers from getting out and spraying against botrytis – the buds had been protected so the plants had bloomed OK, but the lower leaves were all brown. Keep your sulfur- or copper-based botrytis sprays handy, just in case.

Our wet spring has been great for slugs, so now as things dry out, they’ll be heading for the moist garden beds in droves! I use the non-toxic “Garden Safe” brand of slug & snail bait from Wal-Mart – non-toxic to pets and wildlife - but others have assembled their own “arsenals” of ways to lure the slimy things to their dooms. Here are some from “Lilium List” moderator Ken Hixson:

Slug "beer"--1 cup water, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1/4 teaspoon yeast

a teaspoon vinegar is sometimes added

Slug "dough"--1 tbsp molasses, 3 tbsp cornmeal, 1/2 cup flour,

1/2 cup water, 1/2 tbsp yeast-

unused portions may be kept in the refrigerator

Margot Harrison Victoria BC

450 gm container-yogurt or cottage cheese-cut 1" hole in lid

2 cups cool water

2 tbsp flour

1 tsp yeast

1 tsp sugar

1/4 tsp salt

shake well. Fills 2 containers half full

Set containers in ground with lids at soil level. Can be left for

several weeks before changing containers-will be pretty smelly.

If your stomach can stand it, get an old tea strainer, and every few

days strain the contents of the containers-pour the liquid back into

the trap, discard the contents of the strainer under a plant needing

fertilizer (good source of nitrogen)

Slugs are apparently attracted to the scent of fermentation/

alcohol, and or yeast--

Dog Chow--slugs seem to prefer ordinary dry dog food to

beer two to one. Soak in small amount water to soften, place

small piles in appropriate locations, come back after dark and

deal with slugs.

No idea whether or not cat food would work as well--but both

have a fairly high concentration of grain byproducts.

A Toronto garden columnist suggests mixing 1 teaspoon alum

with 4 quarts of water and spraying the foliage of the plants

as a slug repellent.

Finally, it’s time to be resisting the “bargain bin sales” of lily bulbs at garden centers and variety stores;-) I’ve fallen victim to “saving” the poor sprouting lilies, poking desperately out of their plastic bags (and likely mislabeled to boot) more times than I care to admit and I try to steel myself not to even look, but I find I’m no more safe from bargain fever than I ever was! Tell yourself that no matter how cheap they are you still have to put as much (or more) work into growing them, it’s no bargain if they die anyway, and if they do somehow manage to grow, the stress will likely make them more prone to disease. Bring a list of what you need to buy when you go shopping, and look at that instead when you pass the bulb displays in the garden aisles;-)

Late-spring planting even of healthy bulbs is always risky, because the roots don’t have time to develop properly before the onset of hot weather and low humidity make plants transpire at a ferocious rate. Without a functioning root system the only source of food and water for a lily is the bulb, so they may grow for this one season but have nothing to fall back on for the next.

Don Allen of Ludington, Michigan, gives these tips for spring-planted bulbs:

“I have had limited luck in planting late-arriving bulbs in a more shaded area, mulching, then keeping watered. You have to watch out not to over water, as these late-planted bulbs are very prone to rot...I have also had some fair success by potting the bulbs up and putting them in a cool darker area of my basement until the sprouts are several inches high. Then outdoors they go into an area that is shaded during mid-day. They seem to survive on the stem roots until fall when they can be replanted into the beds where they will then develop basal roots.”

Good Luck!"

Trumpet Lilies & Their Hybrids Anyone?

Article by: Edward A. McRae

L

ily enthusiasts, both professional and amateur, have been seeking to improve our lilies for countless years with varying degrees of success. It is true to say that the emphasis has been chiefly on the Asiatic species and hybrids. This was due to many factors, including the number of Asiatic species involved, as well as their hardiness, the enormous range of colors and forms, their generally early flowering habit and the fact that they are easy to raise from seed.

Trumpet lilies, however, and their close relative Lilium henryi need to be considered more fully for they are capable of producing an even greater wealth of beauty, including varieties in a much wider variety of colors and forms than are presently available. This truly is a challenge to amateur hybridizers. We mention a few of the advantages in trumpet lilies and their hybrids.

A.      High fertility in most varieties is truly a plus.

B.      Strong growing habit with plants ranging from over six feet in height to one foot tall miniature varieties.

C.      Attractive fragrance that can fill the summer garden. Fragrance varies from strong to attractively spicy.

D.      Easiness to grow from seed is a special virtue.

     We can list six separate choices when working with the trumpet lilies and L. henryi and their hybrids, using those that are at the present available commercially.

1.       Go back to the original species, which is widely recommended by many experts. Choices and advantages including:

            Lilium leucanthum var. centifolium

                Frequently sold as ‘Black Dragon’ strain, these are truly             magnificent. Later flowering, this species has been admired for many years. The pyramid type of inflorescence is always preferred in trumpet lilies.

            Lilium regale

            The hardiness of this species is an advantage: also, its earlier flowering habit. Choose flowers with dark reverse to petals, gold throats and pink suffusion.

            Lilium sargentiae

                Recently reintroduced from China, this species is a strong grower with white flowers and dark reverse. This species also bears copious bulbils, a characteristic I had not seen before in trumpet lilies, despite working with them for over 25 years.

            Lilium sulphureum

                Also recently reintroduced from China, this species shows especially large, sulphur-yellow flowers with yellow         throats and pink petal margins. It is also late to emerge, which is an advantage when late spring frosts are a problem.

L. sulphureum also bears copious bulbils.

            Lilium henryi

                This species adds color and extra vigor to the trumpet clan. Forms with more sturdy habit are preferred. L. henryi var. citrinum is especially useful because of its yellow to lemon             coloring.

            Lilium rosthornii

                This magnificent species was recently introduced from China and receives a top grade in all respects. Flowers resemble L. henryi and many have dark nectarines. Plant habit and form is totally different, the habit being shorter and the leaves narrowly lanceolate. This is a true challenge to introduce this fine lily into  the trumpet lilies!



Two things we must remember. We can improve the species by selecting superior forms within the population or by crossing with superior hybrid forms of the color of our choice; the latter is number-one if we seek uniqueness.

2.       Trumpet Hybrid Strains

                We can look to many directions in working with the colors and forms presently available. Trumpet forms include ‘Anaconda’  and ‘Copper Crown’ in orange; ‘Amethyst Temple,’ ‘Midnight’ and ‘Summer Palace’ in pink; ‘Golden Temple,’ ‘Golden Scepter’ and ’Moonlight’ in gold and yellow and ‘Sentinel’ strain in white. The more open or “sunburst” type flowers show the influence of L. henryi and include ‘Golden Sunburst’ and ‘Louis XIV’ in golden yellow; ‘Chorister’ and ‘Pink Sunburst’ in pink and ‘Heart’s Desire’ and ‘Silver Sunburst’ in white. Hybridizers can have fun using such material and can either stay to crossing those of the same color or doing a little mixing!

3.       Trumpet Hybrid Clones

              We can use clones which have stood the test of time and here are no better examples than Woodriff’s ‘Black Heart’,   'Golden Eagle’ and ‘White Henryi.’ Obviously, any such clones    that may be available, either commercially or from friends, are invaluable in producing longevity, zip and vigor to their offspring.   Incidentally, seedlings from ‘Black Heart’ x ‘Golden Sunburst’ clone F2 will be available this fall from PNWLS.

4.       Upright Trumpets

             They say variety is the spice of life and the upright trumpets offer such variety. I saw many beautiful clones in all colors when working at Cebeco Lilies and felt the shorter varieties were by far the most desirable. The Lily Garden offers ‘Skylights,’ and ‘Herald Angels’ was produced at Cebeco in earlier years.

5.       Miniature Trumpets

                There is a need for such trumpets for smaller gardens andhybridizers need to look out for more. Vivid memories remain of the superb forms of past years. Hopefully, more will return for their usefulness is beyond dispute.

6.       Tetraploid Trumpet Hybrids

             There is only one way to describe the group and that is       “magnificent.” We must, of course, pay tribute to Bob Griesbach and Judith Freeman, who have worked diligently with them for well over thirty years. These lilies are truly exciting to work with and being thrilled so many times makes it a joy.

Named the “American Classics” by van der Salm Bulb Farms, different color groups were introduced under national park names and are truly special. Being tetraploids, they are much larger than diploids; to possibly identify, we may use a hand microscope to look at the larger stomates (breathing pores) on the underside of leaf surfaces as does tetra expert Arthur Evans! Many will be again available through the PNWLS this coming fall, both select clones and strains. Also, The Lily Garden offers its tetraploid originations including ‘Fanfare,’ ‘Ice Caves,’ and ‘Sinfonia,’ and Northwest Bulbs offers ‘Ortega.’

Pollination

Trumpets and their hybrids naturally flower during warmer summer days, enhancing fertility and the possibility of an excellent seed crop. Pollen is best collected early in the morning before the anthers dehisce, paper cups are ideal and pollen is allowed to dry at room temperature for a few days. It can be placed in the refrigerator to extend viability or simply allowed to remain at room temperature, where it will stay viable for at least one month.

     Pollen of the pollen (male) parent is dusted on the stigma of the seed (female) parent using part of a pipe cleaner or the widely available cotton swabs known as Q-Tips. Trumpets are especially attractive to pollination insects, such as butterflies and moths, this one may wish to protect pollinations from such invaders. This can be done by foil caps made by rolling a 1” square of aluminum foil around the end of a pencil.

     For those with less ambition or time, we may simply pluck the pollen from one flower and dust it on the stigma of a choice flower nearby! The filaments below the anthers make a perfect brush handle!

     Always remember that lilies are self-sterile and will not produce seed from pollen used on the stigma of the same plant. Pollen of special forms can also be dried, bottled and stored in the freezer for many years. We can therefore preserve special genes in a pollen bank and they become eternal!

     The last to mention would be to label all crosses clearly. There is no greater disappointment than to make a wonderful cross and, at a later time, not be able to repeat it because of lack of information, or to not be able to correctly identify the offspring.

Seed Production and Sowing

     Pods will soon develop in fertile crosses and may require spraying for botrytis blight if unfavorable, damp weather occurs.

Pods are collected as color turns from green to soft beige late in the year. Dry at room temperature. After shelling, leave for a few days before removing chaff by gentle blowing process. After packaging, seed should be stored at freezer temperatures. Surplus seed can be given to friends or especially to the NALS Seed Exchange, where it is deeply appreciated.

Seed is sown in spring when temperatures or soil conditions are favorable. Most soil mixes with good drainage are suitable, cover seed lightly and avoid over-watering, especially at the early stages.

Outdoor beds are excellent, too, especially if they are well-drained, well-prepared and free from weeds.

If conditions are favorable, the majority of trumpet lilies and their hybrids will produce a few flowers in their second year and reach maturity in the third year. W can then select outstanding forms, either for future hybridizing, cloning, or as gifts to special friends!

If we are looking for inspiration, look to my friend, Dorothy Schafer, of Waukee, Iowa. Dorothy is a youthful 95 years old and carefully produced an excellent crop of trumpet tetraploid seed this last season; surely an example to all who aspire to bring a little beauty into the world through trumpet lilies and their hybrids.

(Note: This article orginally appeared in the Spring 2006 issue of the PNWLS Bulletin.)